CHARCUTEPALOOZA 11, CURING: Lardo and Lonzino, or the Fat and the Lean

One time Jack referred to Brian’s bresaola as the “old meat hanging in the basement”, and little did he know how good that old meat would become. Over the past few years, Brian has gotten the bresaola thing down, each one more mind-blowingly delicious than the last. He’ll present these little plates of perfectly seasoned cured beef, so thinly sliced that they’re translucent and they melt in your mouth. Usually they’re served in the classic way, with some of his garden arugula, large curls of shaved parmesan cheese, and a few drops of lemon juice, but I always try to eat an unadulterated slice or two so I can taste just it.

 So I was just slightly intimidated by this month’s Charcutepalooza challenge. What on earth could I make that wouldn’t pale in comparison to Brian’s bresaola? I figured I might be safe trying something that we’d never eaten before, so we wouldn’t know just how good or lousy it might be. I figured that pork is a pretty safe bet; you can’t go wrong with it. And Lonzino, a pork loin cured in the same way as bresaola, might even be ok on the new eating plan. But then I remembered a nice piece of milk-fed pork fat from the Amish farmer that was in the freezer, and thought it might be interesting to try curing two opposite cuts of the pig, the lean loin and the pure fat, and to compare them, even though I’ve been working really hard to be more like Jack Sprat and less like his wife!

For the Lonzino I used Hank Shaw’s, of Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, recipe (great site, by the way), and followed Ruhlman and Polcyn’s guide for the lardo.

First the meat & fat got a good covering of salt and spice.

Into the refrigerator they went for a few weeks, being turned every once in a while.

Then they were wrapped and tied.

And they went to the basement to hang out for awhile. The little bathroom down there, with lights off, a humidifier, and a towel at the door is the best place for this.

The Lonzino was brought up and rubbed with brine and/or vinegar a few times to keep any nastiness out.

It didn’t take too long, and they were ready to go.

How do they compare?

The lardo is, well it’s ok.  Maybe it would be more interesting if you were to rub it with a fresh batch of spice before wrapping and hanging.  Maybe a thicker slab of fat would be better. Brian thinks it needs a glass of wine alongside it. I’m wondering if maybe Mrs. Sprat is losing her taste for fat.

But the lonzino, well the lonzino is another story. The texture is right, and the seasonings peek through in just the right amount. I wish we had a few fresh figs to go with it. Lonzino on bread is super, and lonzino on a slice of apple is sublime.

ROASTED GARLIC RICOTTA SPREAD

Both of these meats are just fine on their own, but also good with a mild cheese. This spread, made with mild ricotta, roasted garlic, and a hint of lemon, is just right for a sliver of lonzino.

Drain 1 c ricotta cheese and 3 T yogurt in a cheesecloth lined colander for at least a half an hour. It should be fairly thick and dry.

Meanwhile, slice off the top end of a head of garlic, and roast it in a medium oven for about 20 or 30 minutes until it begins to turn golden.

Pop the cooked garlic out of its skin and whir, along with the drained cheese yogurt mixture and 2 – 3 tsp olive oil, in a food processor until smooth.

Stir in grated zest of one lemon, 1 tsp of lemon juice, a pinch of hot pepper flakes if you like, and salt and pepper to taste.

With the lonzino I like the mildness of the ricotta, but you might want to try one of these variations: try with cottage cheese, drained, or farmer’s cheese. Goat cheeses are nice, too, but may have a stronger, more tangy,  flavor. Drain according to the wetness of the particular cheese you’re using. Fresh herbs, of course, are always nice mixed into a soft cheese; try chives, chervil, and thyme, or whatever other combination you like. 

ONION, FENNEL, AND BACON TART (from Charcutepalooza Challenge #2)

This was inspired by last month’s Charcutepalooza challenge, in which Mrs. Wheelbarrow and The Yummy Mummy encouraged folks to make their own bacon and pancetta. The fennel and onions are cooked separately, as they may have different cooking times, and so the fennel can be seasoned independently from the onions (the fennel is also nice prepared on its own, and served as a side dish). I made smaller free-form tarts, but if you like, the crust can easily be pressed into a tart pan with a removable bottom. 

Makes a 10” tart or two smaller ones

Make the crust:

1 1/3 c all purpose flour

2/3 c whole wheat pastry flour

1/2 c cold butter, cut in small pieces

1/4 c vegetable oil or lard
1/4 - 1/2 c ice water

Mix together flours.

Cut in butter and oil until it resembles coarse crumbs

Add water. Give it a stir or two with a fork, and then bring it together with your hands, being careful not to mix it too vigorously.

Wrap dough in plastic wrap and chill at least 30 minutes before rolling out. While it is chilling, prepare the filling.

Prepare the Onions, Fennel, and Bacon

2-4 T olive oil (more if needed)

4-6 slices bacon or pancetta, chopped into 1/4” - ½” pieces, to make ½ c

1 fennel bulb, stem and tough outer layer removed, cut lengthwise and then crosswise into ¼ - ½” strips. Reserve a handful of the green fronds.

4 medium-large onions

1 small clove garlic, minced

¼ c dry vermouth

1/2 T fresh rosemary, torn or chopped roughly, or 1/2 tsp dried

1 T fresh thyme leaves, or 1 tsp dried

½ c cheese of your choice such as cheddar, gruyere, swiss, or guda, grated. The different cheeses give it different character, use whatever you like best or happen to have around.

Fennel: In a frying pan cook 3 T bacon until it begins to brown. Add sliced fennel and about 2 T olive oil, toss to coat the fennel and add ¼ c water. Cover and cook on a medium low heat until fennel is softened, but still has a bit of crunch, about  20 or 30 minutes. Remove lid and cook off any liquid, letting the fennel brown up. Add vermouth and cook for another minute or so. Toss in about 2 T torn fennel fronds.

Onion: In a frying pan cook the remaining bacon or pancetta until it is lightly browned around the edges. Remove from pan and drain, leaving grease in pan. Add sliced onions and two tablespoons of oil and toss to coat the onions (add more if there isn’t much grease, less if there is). Cook on a very low heat, and after about 5 minutes add the minced garlic, and salt and pepper lightly. Cover tightly and continue cooking until soft, for another 10 or 20 minutes. Try not to brown them too much. Remove lid and cook off any extra liquid.

Preheat oven to 375˚

Roll crust into a circle and press gently into tart pan, or place onto baking sheet.

Gently toss together fennel, onions, and bacon. Mound on tart crust. Top with grated cheese, rosemary and thyme.

If making a free form tart, fold over the crust along the edge.

Chill in refrigerator for 10 minutes.

Bake for about 20 or 30 minutes, until crust is lightly browned and cheese is melted.

Let rest for a few minutes and serve warm or cold.